'Who is it That Does Dictate the Fashions?' Or: Some Notes on Ladies Shops

A recent Victorian Book acquisition of mine is the 1893 edition of the handbook:  “London of Today: An Illustrated Book for This Season, and for All Seasons” Which, as well as containing lots and lots of brilliant Victorian advertisements, is essentially a guidebook for the socially aware denizen or visitor to London. It offers advice on the best of theatre, opera, clubs, restaurants, attractions and shops, as well as the events of the season, and even suggestions for things to do on Sundays in London. (When, in the nineteenth century there was virtually nothing to do.)

I was delighted to find a few chapters concerning fashion, and decided to make fashion this week’s theme.

The chapter I have chosen is extremely long, so I have not reproduced it all, but selected a section from the beginning. Establishments mentioned are in bold.

Some Notes on Ladies Shops

The Quarterly Review, least flippant of all periodicals circulating in London today, condescended a few months since to devote a very learned article to the consideration of the subject of Women’s and men’s costume.

The writer founded his paper on a recently published work – originally, of course, from the French; for the French alone among nations devote time, thought and money to the writing and publishing of such books – entitled “Ten Centuries of Toilette.”

“The question of costume,” said the Quarterly, “when treated not as gossip, not as illustrating only the caprice of various times, is full of interest and instruction.”

Having, at this very moment of writing, a very bulky volume in our possession, some five-hundred pages more, or less 8vo size, full of woodcuts, entitled the “Illustrated Book of Costume,” which volume we have from time to time carefully studied, we make bold to declare our entire agreement with aforesaid paper in the Quarterly Review.

The subject is full of interest and instruction, when discussed as the writer says. But it is scarcely less so when it is regarded as mere gossip; gossip of the moment, wafted from the boudoir, the ball-room, the drawing room, club, “the Park,” “the turf,” the moors, the yachtman’s rendezvous on the Solent, and last not least from the sacred inner room of the tailor, the man-milliner, the dress-maker, the fashionable purveyor of costumes, mantles, and lingerie – of those, in a word, who dictate the fashions.

 Who is it that does dictate the fashions? Whence do they originate? I always like a few quiet minutes for pondering that deeply-interesting problem. Who is it that issues the summary decree, “it shall be ‘Frock-coats in London this year;” and behold, it is ‘Frock-coats’;

and who’s the personage that says “all women shall appear hump-backed and angular this season”; and behold all women, from a peeress to a lady’s-maid, are hump-backed and angular?

Moreover, whence emanate the innumerable fashion plates – simpering ladies of the doll-face kind, straight-limbed and tall – monthly and weekly published in the several journals devoted to the instruction and entertainment of women?

I fancy I can tell whence some few of these fashion-plates, at all events, emanate. They find their beginnings in a lady friend’s sketch-book, an artist friend, whose occasional duty is to seat herself in the stalls of a London theatre, at the first performance of a new play, and to make pencil-sketches of any striking and original lady’s costume that may take her fancy. The rough outline is later elaborated in the studio in pen and ink, and presently appears in the columns of a journal circulating among the fair sex. If the fashion “catches on,” as the vulgar saying is, a “lovely-new-dress-my-dear,” sooner or later, becomes the talk of Bayswater drawing rooms. Then Brixton copies it, then Clapham, then Peckham; and by that time the fashion is dead – played out.

When the belles of Peckham get hold of a new dress, it may be considered as good as done for as regards London.

In Mayfair and Belgravia, fashions do not originate in this haphazard way. A lady of degree goes to her dressmaker in Bond, Dover, or regent Streets. “Madame” (or “Sir”) we may suppose her saying, “I want a dress absolutely original. No one is to have its counterpart, please understand that. It is to be designed exclusively for me.” The material is to be of silk (or whatever may be decided on), and made and trimmed in such or such a style – for the Queen’s drawing room, the ballroom, the dinner or garden party, the lawn at Ascot, what not.

No haggling as to price takes place. But the costume, dress, gown or whatever it may be, must be “original,” designed exclusively for the customer. Once she has made her appearance in it in public, the “copyright” lapses, so to say. The dress, however, has served its purpose. A full, and particular description of it, with the name of the wearer appended, duly appears in the ladies journals.

In some such way as this, a new fashion is created, and the lady whose enterprise has paved the way has the satisfaction of knowing that henceforth she may claim the distinction of ranking among so-called “Leaders of Fashion.”

London being the centre of the world’s civilization, in which, as it is needless to remark, Fashion plays an important part, its Temples are very freely distributed throughout its area. Regent Street, Bond Street and Piccadilly are almost wholly given over to them; Oxford Street will be found to comprise not a few; and in most of the thoroughfares west-ward, the most conspicuous and attractive buildings are those where ladies congregate.

In Brief, the Shops for Ladies comprise no inconsiderable part of the shops in London; and if you wish to see the best of these, and the latest novelties direct from paris, go into regent Street, Bond Street, Piccadilly and Oxford Street. Go to such establishments as Messrs. Lewis & Allenby’s, in Regent Street, or Messrs. Redmayne’s, or Russel & Allen’s in Bond Street, or Messrs. Marshall & Snelgrove’s, in Oxford Street, or Messrs Debenham & Freebody’s, in Wigmore Street. A mere glance at the windows of these several establishments will suffice to assure you of the wealth of beautiful things to be found within, selected with infinite taste and care from the first factories in world: silks, satins, velvets, brocades, laces, embroideries, ribbons, flowers, shawls, etc, etc.

Lewis & Allenby (Conduit Street and Regent Street) are among the oldest established Silk Mercers of London whose reputation has run for at least fifty years.

At the western end of Conduit Street, having adjoining premises in Bond Street, the house of Redmayne & Co. may be found, likewise long and favourably known to the grand dames of the grand world. Here you may inspect all the novelties in the shape of costumes, ball, dinner, and bridesmaids’ gowns, mantles, velvets, satins, lace etc, and all other necessary complements of ladies attire.

The shop of Russell & Allen is not far away. Messrs. Marshall & Snelgrove, of Oxford Street, are another firm of first-rate repute.

As indeed, are Debenham & Freebody, of Wigmore Street, not far westward from the Langham Hotel. This is one of the most extensive establishments of its class in West-end London, not merely at retail, but wholesale; designing the mode, and manufacturing the thing designed as well. It transacts much business with personages of the “upper ten”; and a lady could hardly go to a place in London more sure of affording her the opportunity of studying the latest novelties in the way of fashions and styles of dress, whether emanating direct from Paris, or accepted as the prevailing mode in London.

Not far from Debenham’s, at No. 43 Wigmore Street, is Donegal House, the depot for Irish Industries, supervised by Mrs. Ernest Hart. It makes a speciality of Irish homespuns, poplins, hosiery, lace, napery and household linen, handkerchiefs, embroideries; and is competent to undertake the best class of work in the way of trousseaux, layettes, and ladies’ outfits for India and the Colonies. This establishment has earned quite a reputation for Irish linen-goods.

As likewise has the firm of Walpole Brothers, of 89, New Bond Street, in the manufacture of Cambrics and Damasks, Linens and such like articles of the household. They are well known as manufacturers in Belfast, with a branch house in Dublin. At either establishment you may purchase anything in the shape of Irish linens, cambric handkerchiefs, etc, of the best quality.

There are many places in London where ready and courteous attention will be found for the value of the contents of the little inner-pocket of a purse. There is Shoolbred’s, for example, in Tottenham Court Road, one of the most popular of the general retail stores of London; for mercery, drapery, millinery, dressmaking, furnishing, provisions. The premises are ever increasing, and fine statuary, old oak, and all the requirements of household decoration, are to be bought here.

There are Woolland Bros., and Harvey, Nichols, & Co. of Knightsbridge; Gorringe, of Buckingham Palace Road; Wallis & Co., of Holborn Circus; Tarn, of Newington Causeway; and of course, Whiteley, of Westbourne Grove, the principal attraction of whose establishment is its vastness.

For the privilege of moving about in this vast emporium of retail commerce, ladies will journey from the uttermost ends of London.

In High Street, Kensington, Barker; Derry & Toms; and Seaman and Little cater in the most enterprising way for the wants of society folk.

North of Hyde Park, on the east side of the Edgware Road (Nos. 150-153), a short distance from the familiar Marble Arch is the large retail establishment of Messrs. Garrould, arranged on the plan of Schoolbred’s and similar places, where every thing may be purchased in the way of ladies’ dress, millinery, silks, satins, lingerie, hosiery, bonnets, cloaks, jackets, boots, etc. and every conceivable thing for the household in the shape of furniture, china, bric-a-brac, and so forth, and withal at an outlay more moderate than commonly rules at the west-end of town.

The leading authority on Ladies’ Mourning in London is Jays, at the top of Regent Street. This is not a particularly inviting subject to comment upon. Nevertheless, let it be noted that for all the various articles of ladies’ attire comprised within the term, Jay’s exhibits all things necessary; whether in silks, satins or woollen-stuffs; whole-mourning, half-mourning, or mere complimentary-mourning; Paris or London made; robes, gowns, dresses, mantles, jackets, what-not; inclusive, of course, of crapes, ribbons, and gloves.

Will You Buy My...? Shopping, Street Vendors and Markets

In the first half of the nineteenth century, the building of the railways meant a much wider distribution of goods, greater quantities and things becoming a lot cheaper due to lesser shipping costs.

More goods began to come from abroad in the 1860s and by the end of the century shops had larger windows and fancier signage that took advantage of the latest technology – electricity – to entice customers inside. Once inside you could find almost everything you wanted under one roof.

Shops

‘The Shopkeeper’s Guide’ of 1853 lists a selection of typical items stocked by each type of shop:

The Ironmonger:

Smoke jacks,

kitchen fenders,

box irons,

crimping machines,

goffering machines,

pestles and mortars,

trivets,

ice safes,

bell pulls,

coppers for washing,

taper boxes.

The Cutler Boot jacks,

champagne nippers,

Gentleman’s pocket companion,

ham knives,

large scissors,

oyster knives,

rotary knife cleaner,

pinching irons,

razor strops,

sugar nippers.

The Optician:

Opera glasses,

spectacles for railway travellers,

spectacles for charities and poor persons,

barometers.

The Turner:

Beetle traps,

butter prints,

chocolate mills,

butler’s trays,

housemaid’s boxes,

linen presses,

portable water closets,

mouse traps,

washing crimps,

dollies,

stools,

trays and tubs,

towel horse,

salting tubs.

The General Fancy Shop:

Crochet carriages,

powder puffs,

improved whisker curlers,

larding pins,

steel beads,

inkstands,

reticule mounts,

papier mache goods,

metallic pens,

sealing wax,

wafer & bottle seals,

umbrellas,

rings,

card cases,

glove studs,

vinaigrettes,

smelling salt bottles.

The Stationer:

Ornamental cards in packets,

black-bordered envelopes (for condolence correspondence),

sealing wax and wafers,

pens and quills,

valentines,

curling papers (for curling hair),

music papers,

chalks.

The Chandler and Oilman:

Candles,

best mottled soap,

best vinegar,

curd in bars,

Albert lights,

Brown Windsor,

India Soy,

Poland starch,

Ketchup.

The Perfumer and Fancy Soap Maker:

jasmine,

bergamot,

lemon,

orange.

For the hair:

macassar oil,

Russia oil,

marrow oil,

fancy soaps:

cocoa-nut,

sultana,

lavender,

Otto of Rose,

must,

violet,

Camphor.

Court perfumes,

tooth powders,

cosmetics,

milk of rose,

lip salve,

honey paste,

almond cream,

rouge,

rose cream,

cold cream.

Fancy brushes and combs.

The Chemist and Druggist:

Aloes,

arsenic,

carmine,

gentian,

sponges,

concentrated infusions,

tincture of lavender,

camphos,

castor oil.

The Hosier, Shirt Maker and Outfitter:

Long cloth shirts,

calico drawers,

shirt collars,

brown and white cotton hose,

stiffeners for cravats,

dark merino or silk jackets,

monkey jackets,

pilot cloth trousers,

southwesters,

Glengarry caps,

boot hooks,

bolsters,

printed flannel dressing gowns,

folding chairs,

dress shoes,

towels,

overland trunks,

sea chests,

shawls.

The Grocer:

Teas- Indian and China,

sugars- West India, demerara,

cocoa and chocolate,

fruits,

raisins,

spices,

preserves,

oils,

sauces,

best blue starch,

soda,

 bees wax,

 black lead,

putty powder,

lamp black,

linseed,

canary seed,

brimstone,

bloater paste,

potted ham,

semolina,

cheese.

The Confectioner:

Candied citron,

lemon and orange,

pink, brown, white rose and lemon candies,

barley sugar,

acid,  pear, mint, barberry and ginger drops,

aniseed,

cinnamon,

lozenges,

jujubes,

liquorice,

Pontefract cakes,

crystallized fruits,

dried fruits,

jellies.

French confectionary:

apricot knots,

liquer almonds,

Macedonians,

chocolate pralines,

Twelfth cake,

islinglass, (like gelatine),

bonbonniers,

comfits

Other dealers:

The Agricultural Implement Maker,

The Basket Maker,

The Bookseller,

The Boot and Shoemaker,

The Bed and Mattress Dealer,

The Butcher,

The Bottle Dealer,

The Cabinet Maker  (also a toymaker),

The Archery shopkeeper (fishing tackle and guns),

The Carpenter,

The Hatter,

The Milliner,

The Tobbacconist,

The Watchmaker,

The Harness Maker,

Tailors,

The Looking-Glass Maker,

Pawnbrokers,

The Haberdasher,

The Glover

Street Vendors

Other sellers, or vendors, earned their living selling on the streets, without a shop. Women and servants would spend virtually the whole day at home, rarely leaving the house, so selling door to door was the best and most profitable way for the following people to do business:

The Watercress Girl:

She was usually a very young girl who took fresh cresses to middle class homes at breakfast or tea-time. Over the years the Watercress Girl has become somewhat synonymous with the image of working youth in a similar way to young chimney-sweeps.

This portrait of a watercress girl (left) painted by Frederick Ifold, 1867

Butchers:

These meat-vendors sent their boys to customers’ homes early in the morning so that the cook could give them the day’s meat order. No refrigeration in the 19^th century, so meat needed to be delivered on the day it was intended to be used. A few hours after breakfast the butcher’s boys could be seen walking the streets with trays of meat balanced on their shoulders.

Bakers:

Delivered bread or cakes every day

Milk Men / Women:

Also delivered daily, carrying their cans of milk on a yoke balanced over their shoulders.

Potmen:

Delivered something a little stronger to drink, mostly porter and stout, in two great metal jugs carried on a similar contraption to a yoke.

Markets

Markets were a large part of Victorian England. I have a brief summary of the main London markets and their specific produce, but would welcome information on Victorian markets all over the world, for a more comprehensive breakdown of London’s markets, click here to see the article "Know Your Markets" on the Cat’s Meat Shop, the blog of Victorian London doyenne, Lee Jackson

In London, the following markets were the most popular:

Metropolitan Cattle Market:

This was found between Islington and Camden town and was opened in 1855 by Prince Albert. As the name suggests, the market sold mainly cows and sheep.

Smithfield Market:

Smithfield Market

This was a huge market with an area covering five acres. As with the Metropolitan Cattle Market, Smithfield sold mostly cattle and sheep, but it also sold things such as hay and straw. The market was surrounded by catgut manufactories, knackers yards and bone-houses who did a great trade from any animals that died in the market. Pubs and taverns also surrounded the market.

Billingsgate Market:

Just below London Bridge was the fish market of London, made of red bricks with stone dressings.

It opened at 5a.m. at which time only fishmongers were allowed in. At 7a.m. the costers could turn up and buy what was left.

A third of all fish landed at Billingsgate was bought for resale by costers.

Covent Garden Market:

The great fruit, vegetable and herb market was built in 1830, with a new flower market covered with glass like the Crystal Palace being added in 1859.

At Covent Garden, itinerant vendors sold all sorts from teapots to rat poison, pineapple to frogs, and even sparrows were sold for 1d, string tied to their leg so children could play with them.

Newgate Market:

This was a meat market for butchers and could be found between

Newgate Street

and Paternoster Row.

Leadenhall Market:

Was located between

Gracechurch Street

and the East India House. At Leadenhall, there was a variety of goods sold, including fish, vegetables, leather, hides and bacon. However, it was most notable for its vast array of poultry.

Hungerford Market:

This was only a small market for butchers meat, poultry and fish for food, but it also sold fruit and flowers. It was demolished in 1862 to make way for Charing Cross train station.

Farringdon Market:

This was another small market and was the main vendor in London for watercress.

Some of these markets are still standing, and are well worth a visit. In conjunction with the last post regarding the Thames, a walk down the river on the north bank should include a stop at Leadenhall market which is still a wonderful sight.